Snap chalk lines from post stake to post stake to create the gazebo outline on the ground. Remove the string from one side of the layout at a time while you dig the holes for the concrete footings. Do not remove the batter boards yet, as you will need to restring the gazebo layout later to help set the post anchor bolts.
The footing holes should average 12 inches in diameter, be at least 3 feet deep and be larger atthe bottom than at the opening. Fill the base of the hole with several inches of compacted gravel. In cold climates, footings should extend 6 inches below the frost line or comply with local codes.
Make 12- by 12-inch square wood frames from 2x4 lumber for each footing to contain the concrete at ground level. Restring the gazebo layout now so that the frames can be centered for positioning the anchor bolts and posts later. Level the frames to each other and use backfill or stakes to secure the frames while pouring the concrete.
Use adjustable post anchors and quick-setting concrete. Pour the center footing first and set a 6-inch long 6x6 wooden nailing block at a depth of several inches into its center so that at least four inches remain above the concrete. Trim this block to height later when framing in the deck.
Pour perimeter footings and set anchor bolts one at a time. All anchor bolts should measure six feet from the center of the gazebo and five feet from each other. Check each for plumb and level. This is important for the gazebo to properly fit together. Make any adjustments before the concrete sets completely--about 1/2 hour.
Once the concrete is set, assemble the post anchors square to the center footing and with the required 22-1/2 degree angle between posts. Remove the 2x frames.
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